Colorful Warm Goodness!

It's scarf season! I rarely knit things for myself, so I decided to make myself a scarf for the winter. And when I saw this yarn, I knew I'd found my scarf yarn!

But what to do with it? I knew that I wanted something cabled but cohesive, so I figured out a pattern that would be wide enough but would still potentially shrink down when needed with the ribbing. Then I found this basket weave/single cable combo. There was much squeeing involved.

Also, you can download the pattern for yourself! I didn't design it by any means, and I want to make sure the lovely lady who did gets the credit she deserves because she has made some delicious bits of fibery goodness! Her name is Melissa Mall, and she has a menagerie of patterns to choose from. Click here!

Now, the edges of my scarf are out of a book that I have had for a couple years. Basically, you seed stitch the first 6 rows, then the first 6 stitches of each row after. HOWEVER, important note: Be sure to cast on an ODD NUMBER. Otherwise, this seed stitch won't map out correctly.

I started with a CO of 55, and I did this so that I would have a 6 point outside edge. At minimum, you will want a 4 point outer edge to ensure that the seed stitch evens out, which gives you a 51 CO. If you trim up the P4 to a P3 right outside the basket weave, you can cut the CO down to a 49 CO. Either way, here we go!

Quick notation legend:

cb6: Cable 6 back. Slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle, and set it BEHIND your work. Then knit 3 off the main body of your work, line up your cable needle, then knit the 3 stitches off the cable needle.

cf6: Cable 6 forward. Slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle, and set it IN FRONT OF your work. Then knit 3 off the main body of your work, line up your cable needle, then knit the 3 stitches off the cable needle.

k: knit

p: purl

Pattern, ho!

CO 55

Slip your first stitch, then seed stitch across starting with k1, ending with k1 (this is why is has to be an odd number). for Rows 1-6. Makes sure the slip the first stitch of EVERY ROW. It gives your work a nice even outside edge that makes it look extra pretty!

Row 7: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3 (WATCH FOR THIS ONE! It's the one asymmetrical bit of the whole pattern), seed 5, k1.
Row 8: (and all wrong side rows) S1, seed 5, k3, p6, k4, p18, k4, p6, k2, seed 5, k1 to finish
Row 9: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 11: S1, seed 5, p2, c6f, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6,, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 13: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 15: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 17: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 19: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 21: S1, seed 5, p2,  k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Repeat Row 9-22 to desired length.

VARIATION: This variation gives the basket stitch a longer feel. It also makes cabling a little easier if you aren't as experienced. This also makes the overall pattern faster simply because you aren't cabling every single row as I did for my scarf. It also might make things easier if you are using a more unruly yarn. the other REALLY nice thing about this pattern is that it tends to take care of clumping colors in variegated yarn with little to no effort. PLEASE NOTE: The middle section of the pattern below is Melissa Mall's. The above is my interpretation of her pattern, but the pattern below is hers and corresponds to that first image of creamy cabled goodness above.

Row 1-6: Seed stitch as above
Row 7: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3 (WATCH FOR THIS ONE! It's the one asymmetrical bit of the whole pattern), seed 5, k1.
Row 8: (and all wrong side rows) S1, seed 5, k3, p6, k4, p18, k4, p6, k2, seed 5, k1 to finish
Row 9: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 11: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 13: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 15: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 17: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 19: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, k18, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 21: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 23: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 25: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 27: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 29: S1, seed 5, p2,  k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 31: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, k18, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 33: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 35: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1

Repeat Rows 13-36 to the desired length.

Now, once you have the length that you want, and be sure to start on a RIGHT WAY ROW for this last bit. S1, Seed stitch 6 more rows, ending on k1 for each row, then Cast off!

And for those who prefer charting, click here!

This chart is for the VARIATION, not the pattern that I used. If you want my exact pattern, then don't use any of the rows where you knit 18 stitches instead of cabling the center section.

Now, the edges are out of a book that I have had for a couple years. Basically, you seed stitch the first 6 rows, starting with k1, p1, k1, etc., ending in k1. Important Note: Be sure to cast on an ODD NUMBER. Otherwise, this seed stitch won't map out correctly.

Optional Finishing Touch:

Now, for the finishing fiddly bits! I took the remains of my 4th skein (yes, it took 3 1/2 skeins for the length I wanted. Your mileage may vary) and cut pieces that were about 6 inches long each. Now, if you look at the bottom and top edges of your work, where the rows have those nice outside loops. For this, you will need either a crochet hook!

How it works: slip your hook through the exposed loop at the end of your row. Pull the center of one strand of yarn through about 1 inch. Take the two ends from the other side, bring them OVER your scarf and slip then down into the new yarn loop you just made. Hold the ends together and pull tight. You should have 2 yarn bits of even length now dangling from the end of your scarf. Your fringe has begun! Now, repeat this for the rest of the row, and you have a nice, even fringe line! Be sure to cut your strands as close to the same length as possible It doesn't have to be exact, but it's important to keep it close so that it appears even once you're finished.

Enjoy! And if you do this one, please post pictures! I want to see what you come up with to make this your own!