Colorful Warm Goodness!

It's scarf season! I rarely knit things for myself, so I decided to make myself a scarf for the winter. And when I saw this yarn, I knew I'd found my scarf yarn!

But what to do with it? I knew that I wanted something cabled but cohesive, so I figured out a pattern that would be wide enough but would still potentially shrink down when needed with the ribbing. Then I found this basket weave/single cable combo. There was much squeeing involved.

Also, you can download the pattern for yourself! I didn't design it by any means, and I want to make sure the lovely lady who did gets the credit she deserves because she has made some delicious bits of fibery goodness! Her name is Melissa Mall, and she has a menagerie of patterns to choose from. Click here!

Now, the edges of my scarf are out of a book that I have had for a couple years. Basically, you seed stitch the first 6 rows, then the first 6 stitches of each row after. HOWEVER, important note: Be sure to cast on an ODD NUMBER. Otherwise, this seed stitch won't map out correctly.

I started with a CO of 55, and I did this so that I would have a 6 point outside edge. At minimum, you will want a 4 point outer edge to ensure that the seed stitch evens out, which gives you a 51 CO. If you trim up the P4 to a P3 right outside the basket weave, you can cut the CO down to a 49 CO. Either way, here we go!

Quick notation legend:

cb6: Cable 6 back. Slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle, and set it BEHIND your work. Then knit 3 off the main body of your work, line up your cable needle, then knit the 3 stitches off the cable needle.

cf6: Cable 6 forward. Slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle, and set it IN FRONT OF your work. Then knit 3 off the main body of your work, line up your cable needle, then knit the 3 stitches off the cable needle.

k: knit

p: purl

Pattern, ho!

CO 55

Slip your first stitch, then seed stitch across starting with k1, ending with k1 (this is why is has to be an odd number). for Rows 1-6. Makes sure the slip the first stitch of EVERY ROW. It gives your work a nice even outside edge that makes it look extra pretty!

Row 7: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3 (WATCH FOR THIS ONE! It's the one asymmetrical bit of the whole pattern), seed 5, k1.
Row 8: (and all wrong side rows) S1, seed 5, k3, p6, k4, p18, k4, p6, k2, seed 5, k1 to finish
Row 9: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 11: S1, seed 5, p2, c6f, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6,, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 13: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 15: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 17: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 19: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 21: S1, seed 5, p2,  k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Repeat Row 9-22 to desired length.

VARIATION: This variation gives the basket stitch a longer feel. It also makes cabling a little easier if you aren't as experienced. This also makes the overall pattern faster simply because you aren't cabling every single row as I did for my scarf. It also might make things easier if you are using a more unruly yarn. the other REALLY nice thing about this pattern is that it tends to take care of clumping colors in variegated yarn with little to no effort. PLEASE NOTE: The middle section of the pattern below is Melissa Mall's. The above is my interpretation of her pattern, but the pattern below is hers and corresponds to that first image of creamy cabled goodness above.

Row 1-6: Seed stitch as above
Row 7: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3 (WATCH FOR THIS ONE! It's the one asymmetrical bit of the whole pattern), seed 5, k1.
Row 8: (and all wrong side rows) S1, seed 5, k3, p6, k4, p18, k4, p6, k2, seed 5, k1 to finish
Row 9: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 11: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 13: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 15: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 17: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 19: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, k18, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 21: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 23: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 25: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 27: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 29: S1, seed 5, p2,  k6, p4, cb6, cb6, cb6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 31: S1, seed 5, p2, cf6, p4, k18, p4, cf6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 33: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, cf6, cf6, cf6, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1
Row 35: S1, seed 5, p2, k6, p4, k18, p4, k6, p3, seed 5, k1

Repeat Rows 13-36 to the desired length.

Now, once you have the length that you want, and be sure to start on a RIGHT WAY ROW for this last bit. S1, Seed stitch 6 more rows, ending on k1 for each row, then Cast off!

And for those who prefer charting, click here!

This chart is for the VARIATION, not the pattern that I used. If you want my exact pattern, then don't use any of the rows where you knit 18 stitches instead of cabling the center section.

Now, the edges are out of a book that I have had for a couple years. Basically, you seed stitch the first 6 rows, starting with k1, p1, k1, etc., ending in k1. Important Note: Be sure to cast on an ODD NUMBER. Otherwise, this seed stitch won't map out correctly.

Optional Finishing Touch:

Now, for the finishing fiddly bits! I took the remains of my 4th skein (yes, it took 3 1/2 skeins for the length I wanted. Your mileage may vary) and cut pieces that were about 6 inches long each. Now, if you look at the bottom and top edges of your work, where the rows have those nice outside loops. For this, you will need either a crochet hook!

How it works: slip your hook through the exposed loop at the end of your row. Pull the center of one strand of yarn through about 1 inch. Take the two ends from the other side, bring them OVER your scarf and slip then down into the new yarn loop you just made. Hold the ends together and pull tight. You should have 2 yarn bits of even length now dangling from the end of your scarf. Your fringe has begun! Now, repeat this for the rest of the row, and you have a nice, even fringe line! Be sure to cut your strands as close to the same length as possible It doesn't have to be exact, but it's important to keep it close so that it appears even once you're finished.

Enjoy! And if you do this one, please post pictures! I want to see what you come up with to make this your own!

Urban Agriculture - Bees

And then my science geek comes out to play sitar...

Thought process for Urban Agricultural Center in Ames

I.                   Establishment

II.                 Funding

III.              Maintenance

IV.              Education

V.                Long-Term Goals

I.                   Establishment

A.    Iowa State University School of agriculture

1.     Since the University has such a myriad school of agriculture to begin with, this poses a base from which to launch the project.

a.     Possible Ph.D thesis topic for a student/student group within the school

b.     University already has land allocated for Agricultural studies, possible land allocation or donation for project

2.     University study emphasis on honeybees in urban environment

a.     Bees allows for wider range of available vegetation

b.     Also ties into Education of community about bee behavior, care, and essential part of pollination of plant life

B.     Non-Profit Overseeing Body

1.     Establishment of 501(c)3 for long-term running of the center and the garden itself

a.     For this status, need a board, need by-laws, need an educational focal point (bees, urban agriculture, etc)

b.     Possible “in association with” status with University, but not if working with a ‘for profit’ University will make a difference in status

2.     Major annual fundraising for the garden would be from corporate donations, grants, and community outreach programs

C.     Planting

1.     Need to plant wide variety of plants that can be grown in this environment.

a.     Plants that do and do not need bees to pollinate

b.     Plants needing equipment such as berries and tomatoes

c.      Fruit Trees take time to produce viable fruit, into years. Need to maintain and monitor

2.     Need to plant a balanced array of plants for soil nutrient and pH content. Consider close proximity combinations

II.                 Funding

A.    Non-Profit Overseeing Body

1.     Establishment of 501(c)3 for long-term running of the center and the garden itself

a.     For this status: need a board, need by-laws, need an educational focal point (bees, urban agriculture, etc)

b.     Possible “in association with” status with University, but not sure if working with a ‘for profit’ University will make a difference in status, though ISU is a state school. Need legal consult for that clarification given 501(c)3 recent rule changes

2.     Major annual fundraising for the garden would be from corporate donations, grants, and community outreach programs

3.     Front end sale of produce, herbs, and honey from the garden

a.     Charge a set fee per bag of items (roughly the size of a paper grocery sack)

b.     Encourage bag reuse by offering a discounted rate for bringing one’s own bags

c.      Have basic size of bags that are and are not ok (Grocery vs garbage bag, etc)

d.     Offer honey by the jar and honeycomb by the pound, prepared so that there is less exposure to the beehives by the overall community. This lowers the risk of allergies, upsetting the bees, and keeping the hives orderly

III.              Maintenance

A.    Community Volunteer work

1.     Possible discount off price per bag for certain hours

2.     Possible local school field trips to education center and garden, continuing community outreach and education in plant care

B.     Scout work

1.     Work with the Girl Scouts of America to offer merit badge credit for work done in the garden, whether for bee-keeping, plant care, etc

2.     Work with Boy Scouts of America to offer Scout volunteer hours and Eagle Scout projects.

a.     Possible Eagle scout project: beehive start to finish.

b.     Possible Eagle scout project: Orchard care

C.     Possibly Offer queen-less swarm removal and relocation within the city as space and personnel permits

IV.              Education

A.    Education center

1.     Specializing in the pros and cons and secrets to urban gardening

2.     Deal with indoor and outdoor issues (space needed for certain plants, irrigation, necessary light/light preferences, yield, etc)

3.     Deal with plants that are poisonous to pets but not people

4.     Deal with essential oils to pets

5.     Deal with Bees in urban environment

6.     Deal with soil conditions (pH, water content, etc) and necessary soils for different trees, fruits, veggies and flowers

B.     Bee Hives/Bee Keeping

1.     Specialize in bee safety and behavior

2.     Dispel myths of over-aggressive domestic bee behavior

3.     Illustrate the essential role honeybees play in pollination and plant health

4.     Show the damage done by invading bee species

5.     Illustrate the strain of sick and dying hives on overall agriculture

6.     Show how careful urban beekeeping does not harm the community

7.     Illustrate that the taste of honey depends on what the bees eat! The plants that bees are exposed to determines the kind of honey they produce (flowers vs fruits vs grasses vs trees)

8.     Keep in mind allergies!

9.     Show the difference in urban beekeeping as opposed to rural beekeeping.

a.     Citations for Paris Project in news: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/01/health/01iht-parisbees.16613547.html

http://www.csmonitor.com/The-Culture/Gardening/2009/0929/paris-rooftops-abuzz-with-beekeeping

http://blogs.cisco.com/csr/employees-buzzing-over-volunteer-impact/

b.     Pesticides and parasites as possible causes for dying hives, specifically pesticide called clothianidin, made by Bayar Chemical Corp.

C.     Develop a curriculum to follow with certain age groups of incoming school students vs Girl/Boy Scout troops

D.    Possibly set aside a quarantine zone for maintenance of hives so that incoming community can observe but not interfere

E.     Community involvement in maintaining their own food source

F.     Nutritional education, especially for lower income households

G.    Seasonal/regional eating and cooking

V.                Long-Term Goals

A.    Community Awareness

B.     Community Involvement

C.     Sustainable produce supply

D.    Local education in agriculture

E.     Youth outreach

F.     Raising base level of nutrition for lower income families/households in the community

G.    Nurturing a healthy bee population, avoiding drifting between hives

H.    Sustainable food source that is as much about community and the act of growing as any other is about profit

I.       Revival and maintenance of different strains of seeds and plant varieties that thrive in the area.

And, thoughts?